Recently, due to the epidemic in Shanghai，outdoor product, I was quarantined at home. I compiled the photos of the 2022 National Day trip to Le Dorman, and described the records as accurately as possible, for the reference of friends who will participate in commercial Le Dorman and even self-climbing in the future. Opinion.
I participated in the Le Domain mountaineering activity of the National Day Leading Mountaineering School in 2022. At that time, Queer Mountain and Animaqing were closed. The only 6,000-meter-level peaks that are relatively entry-level are Le Domain, Jinyin Mountain, Tian Haizi and Zhongshan. mountain peak. After careful consideration, I felt that many companies in Zhongshan Peak Jinyinshan were too intensive in the first year. I will not consider it for the time being. Le Dorman has successfully climbed the summit once in 19 years, so he should be familiar with the situation. Tian Haizi felt that the experience should not be as good as Ledomain, and finally signed up for the lead climbing Ledo mountaineering activity. To be honest, it’s a little expensive to sign up for a lead climb. The 1:2 ratio of team members is more expensive than the 1:1 ratio of other 6,000-meter mountains I’ve climbed. They laid a 2-kilometer rope for climbing, and they worked hard to lead the team to the top in the case of poor weather. To be honest, as long as the team members tried their best to participate in the final summit push that day, all the team members reached the summit safely, so all members of our team reached the summit except for one team member who gave up by himself when he set off.
The picture picture shows the last snow slope before the summit. This part of the road is relatively difficult. There is an elevation near the snow slope in the distance, where the ice wall was kicked by the previous team members. Therefore, with the help of the follow-up guides, the subsequent team members re-assume a new rope, and start from the left. Two footprints to the top. So there are two footprints on the slope.
The picture first introduces the lead climbing schedule. This schedule is a bit long. It takes 12 days from Chengdu to return to Chengdu, and 1 day of maneuvering time, but it takes so long to allow the team members to adapt to the high altitude. It turns out that none of our 9 team members had a high reaction this time. Another feature of the leader's schedule is that he took a day off at C1. Some team members said that doing so would at least increase the team's summit rate by 30%. It turned out that all the 8 members who participated in the summit in the end were in relatively bad winds. In the snowy weather, only one team member gave up and did not reach the summit.
The line used for the lead climbing in the picture is the summit line found by the Hokkaido mountaineering team in Japan. This line is currently used for both independent climbing and commercial climbing, and it is said to be the easiest and safest summit line on this mountain. The route goes all the way up the ridge, no avalanches, no getting lost, even though the wind can be quite strong. After the picture goes from Chengdu to Lao Yulin, I will stay in a farmhouse in Lao Yulin for a day. On this day, I will explain the use of technical equipment, and I will also go to the Tianhaizi Mountain Mountaineering Base of Yajia Terrier to simply hike to adapt to the altitude. All this is for the follow-up climbing. The absence of high anti-reflection in the middle laid the foundation. picture On the third day, I started walking from Lao Yulin to stay in the iron house in Liangchahe. This part of the road is relatively simple and the scenery is better.
Picture Picture Picture Picture The next day, from Liangchahe to Le Domanyin Base Camp, passing the farmhouse below Jiazi Peak, you will see a picture of Liu Xing engraved on a big rock. It is said that this person is also the coach of the lead climbing. Uche was killed. Pictures and pictures You can arrive at the Le Doman base camp at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. The tent has been set up and the facilities are ready. The big tent is very clean. The base camp is a tent for two team members. I can see the reflection of Le Dorman, and it feels very good.
Picture picture base camp correction One day is mainly to go up to the end of the glacier at the end of Le Doman Inhaizi to practice glacier walking. It is about 5 or 6 kilometers back and forth. The road is not far, but it is a little harder than the previous hike to the base camp. , sometimes you need to jump around without getting a little tired
Pictures, pictures, pictures, pictures The main practice on the glacier is to walk on the ice and walk through the nodes. I have practiced ice climbing before, but coach Gu Gu said that I have to perform inaccurate ice climbing and it is more laborious, so I will use a more labor-saving way to climb ice in the future. , When ice climbing, if it is not very steep, the front teeth are not kicked in, but stepped in.
At that time, the second day after we arrived at the base camp, the Lausanne team also came. They also brought a kayak to row on Haizi. We watched it from a distance and did not play. Pictures, pictures, pictures Before climbing, the leader cooperated with Yanyang. Later, Yanyang himself was too busy with climbing customers, so he couldn’t cooperate. The leader hired a chef from Xiaojin to cook for us. In fact, he can cook well. If there are not enough porters, the team members can pay Master Yang to carry the bag to C1 the next day, but they need to discuss with Master Yang. In fact, we didn't ask Chef Yang to carry things behind us. There is no porter in this mountain, so we can only ask the guide to carry it. So I left the SLR camera at the base camp and went up the mountain with a black card.
The whole journey from the base camp to c1 is a gravel road, which is difficult to walk. There will be grass slopes at the beginning, but it is very short, and most of them are gravel, which is difficult to walk. You need to be careful not to hurt your feet, otherwise the trip will end directly.
Especially when the slope is shaking when it is about to reach c1 at the end, it is very difficult to walk, everyone must be careful. c1 feels very safe, but if the water is to be taken to the edge of the glacier, we took the ice this time with the help of the lead climbing coach, so we did not encounter any danger. I didn't bring a bowl this time. I brought an instant noodle to c1. After eating, I didn't throw away the paper cup. I continued to eat as a bowl every day, which could reduce some of the weight on my shoulders.
On the day c1 was renovated, it was to stay at c1 to eat, drink, brag, and be in a daze. Most of the other commercial teams or autonomous teams did not have this day's rest. But the rest of the day, I think the team's summit rate increased by 30%. c2 lives on a glacier and trimming at c2 is not possible.
From c1-c2, it is a gravel road at the beginning, then the glacier rises, and then continues to the gravel road, and then the glacier cuts the steep slope. You have to put on crampons for a while, then take it off, and then put on the crampons again. , more troublesome, need to pay attention. There will be falling rocks in a section of the gravel road. Be very careful. It is best to pass one by one. Don't queue up, otherwise it will be very dangerous to be hit by the falling rocks. In fact, I don't think it's scary to be exposed, but the rockfall is scary. Picture c1 sees the Riuche Sunshine Jinshan
I think this mountain is very dangerous. I slipped from c1-c2 twice with my equipment on my back and got caught on the rope. If I did not set a rope for self-climbing, I felt very dangerous. After the picture crosses the steep slope, there is a gentle cross-section, and you can come to c2 The picture c2 camp is set up on a relatively flat hanging glacier.
After reaching c2, the weather quickly turned bad and the wind was very strong. Everyone rushed into the tent and the lead coach dug a toilet on the side. However, since it was too cold, I used the pulsating bottle as a chamber pot and didn’t go out to urinate all night.
c2 There are 3 team members in a tent. From c2 to the summit, the coach said that the departure was at 3:30. I set my mobile phone alarm clock to wake up at 2:00. At that time, I was worried that I would not be able to reach the summit, but I still put on my own clothes and the zipper was not pulled. I was ready to go to the summit at any time, but I didn't have a meal. The Lausanne team next to me stopped going to the summit because of the bad weather. At this time, it was 3 o'clock. Coach Gu Gu told everyone to leave. The team members ate some milk powder and prepared to go. The picture starts from c2 with strong wind and light snow mixed in. I can't see the road all the time. I just follow the rope and push the ascender. The team member I formed with has a little cold hands. The guide helped him remove the snow from his body. I captured this photo. After dawn we came to the final hurdle of the summit.
