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Meili's new outer turn: 6 years, 250 kilometers, 27,000 meters of climb, how did this new line
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Meili's new outer turn: 6 years, 250 kilometers, 27,000 meters of climb, how did this new line
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2022-06-15 13:58:27
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Meili's new outer turn: 6 years, 250 kilometers, 27,000 meters of climb, how did this new line
"Ijustcameoutofthemountain
sportsfitness
,andIstayedinthemountainforalmosthalfamonth,andthenXinwaizhuanfigureditout."
Thisisthefirstmessage86senttomeafterheleftthemountain.Ontheotherendofthephone,hewasprobablystillwalkingontheroad,gaspingforbreath,hisvoicetremblingrhythmicallywithhispace.
"Afterthislineisfinished,Icanevenconsideritawish.Afterall,ithasbeenalmostsixyears."Thiswashissecondsentence.
Oneafternoonnearlyamonthago,86sentmeascreenshotofGoogleEarth.ThemountainsinMeiliareinthemiddle,andthesurroundingmountains,riversandravinesaredenselycoveredwithtracks.Thesearethetestimonyof86yearsofexploringMeili.
"Weprefertofindaroadthateveryonecanwalk,atleastmostALICEfriendscanwalk.Insteadofsayingthatitisverydangerous,itseemsthatIamverypowerful.IwillclimbitmyselfandIwillbedone."
thewayoffaith
Onlypietycansupportyouthroughthisroute
SpeakingofhikingintheMeiliarea,peopleoftenthinkofYubeng,alsoknownastheinner-turningroute,andthenthemountain-turningroute,whichistheouter-turningroute.Cometothinkofit,theseseemtobetheonlytwowell-establishedhikingtrailsintheMeriarea.
Meilihasalwaysbeenaplacefulloflegends.Thenameofitsmainpeak"Kawagbo"isthenameofthetrinityofthemainpeakofPrinceSnowMountain,themountaingodandtheconceptofPrinceSnowMountain.Today,whenbasiceducationisquitepopular,TibetansstillbelievethattheMeiliMountaindisasterin1991wastheresultoftheappearanceofthegodKawagebo,andKawagebostillhasthetitleoftheheadoftheeightsacredmountainsinTibet.
LegendhasitthatKawagebowasoriginallyaviciousgodwithnineheadsandeighteenarms.Later,hewastaughtbyGuruRinpoche,ordainedasalayman,convertedtoBuddhism,andbecameadivinegeneralunderKingGesar.snowy.TibetansareconvincedthatGodKawagebolivesintheglazedpalaceonthetopofthemountainandblessesallbeingswithauspiciousness.IntheTibetancalendar,Kawagebobelongstothesheep,soeveryyearofthesheepintheTibetancalendar,countlesspilgrimssetfootontheroadofKawageboturningthemountain.
▲MaChaitong,thetraditionalMeriturnsoutside.
ItisdifficulttoverifythehistoryofthetraditionalMeili-waitingline.ItissaidthattheMeiliSnowMountainturnedthemountainasearlyas1268,whichoriginatedfromtheroadthattheTibetanBuddhistlivingBuddhaKarmaBaxihadtraveledherefor8years..Sincethen,TibetanBuddhistbelievershavebeenturningaroundtheKawagebosacredmountainformorethan700years.
Buddhistsbelievethatthereareonlytwowaystoavoidthesufferingofthesixrealmsofreincarnation.ThefirstmethodistocultivateintoalivingBuddha,whichisextremelydifficult;thesecondmethodistoturnamountain.IntheheartsofmanypeoplewhobelieveinTibetanBuddhism,theymustturnaroundtheKawaborgonceintheirlivesinordertoavoidthesufferingoffallingintohellduringreincarnation.
▲Themountain-turneronthetraditionalouterturnroad.
86hasalsogonethroughthetraditionalMerioutsideturn.
Probablyin2008or2009,Ican'tremembertheexacttime86.Atthattime,hewasstillarookieintheoutdoors,andtherewerestillmanyhikingroutesthathehadnevergonethrough,andhewaseagertotryeveryoneofthem.However,strictlyspeaking,the86routehasnotbeencompletelycompletedsofar.Becausethereisalmostnosceneryatall,thereareonlyafewplaceswithbeautifulscenery,andthereareonlythreeplacestoseeKawageboPeakinthewholecircle.
Inrecentyears,manyplacesontheforeigner'stransferroutehavebeenopenedtotraffic.ExceptforBuddhistswhobelieveinfaith,fewpeoplechoosetowalkthewholejourney.
86comments,thisisthemostboringanduninterestingoutdoorroutehehastraveled,soboringthatthereareafewparagraphsof86andevendirectlychoosetotakethecar.Butitwasthisboredomthatmadehimrealizethepoweroffaith:fromtheageof70tothebeginningofschool,countlessTibetanspouredintothisextremelyboringroutetocompletethepracticeoftheirbeliefs.
▲YongshitongInn,thetraditionalMerioutside.
"ThemostexaggeratedthingI'veeverseenisthelastyearofthesheep.ThelawnoftheYubengGodWaterfallwasdenselypackedwithpeople.JustlikegoingtoGangRinpocheintheyearofthehorse,itisabsolutelyimpossibletogetlost,followtheflowofpeople,andlookaround.Therewereatleastafewhundredpeopleinsight.Atthattime,IstillrememberthattheDeqinCountygovernmentrequisitionedallthehotelstoprovideaccommodationforpilgrims,aswellasrumors,anditwaslikegoingtoamarketalongtheway.”
Althoughinnsandsupplypointshavecoveredeverynodeofthehikingroute,thelackofscenerymakesfewoutdoorenthusiastschoosetohike.Evenso,therearestillasteadystreamofpilgrimsonthemountainroadeveryyear.
▲Turn108,thetraditionalMerioutside.
"It'sapurepathoffaiththathasalmostnothingtodowiththelandscape."
MeiliSnowMountainhassucharichlandscape,butthereareonlyafewhikingroutes.Anideagraduallyformedin86'smind.HewantedtodeveloparoutethatwouldincorporatethebestofMerry.
Preliminarystudy
Goingaroundandgoingthewrongwayisthenormalstateofpath-finding
Thebiggestdifferencebetweenexploringanewrouteandordinaryhikingisthatyoufaceunknownterrain.
Inthefaceoftheunknown,itisoftennecessarytopreparemorefoodreservesandequipmentthanisactuallyneededtodealwithemergencies.Accordingto86'sdescription,themostexaggeratedone,theequipmenttheypreparedcouldbecomparabletohigh-altitudemountaineering,rangingfrompowerropes,iceaxes,seatbeltstomechanicalstoppers.However,mostofthetimetheycanusetheseequipment,theywillchoosetodrop.
▲86'sequipmentwall.
What'smoreimportantisfoodstorage.FromQiunatongtoYubeng,itwasthefirsttimethat86begantoexplorethelineinthetruesense.InJuly2016,86andhisfriendYunboAweiembarkedonthisjourney.TheyplannedtocrossthepassbetweenWuguanPeakandJiangjunPeakfromQunatongtoYubeng.
Thisisaroadthatnoonehaseversetfooton.Thereisnotrack,notrail,alltheyhaveistheequipmentintheirbagsandtheexperienceintheirheads.OnthenightofstayingatFeilaiTemple,Ichattedwiththeowneroftheinnaboutthepurposeofthetrip,butwasimmediatelyrejected,"Ihaveneverheardofanyonewalkinglikethis."
Still,theydecidedtogiveitatry.JulyandAugustaretherainyseasonsinMeili,thesunrarelyshowsup,theairinthevalleysiswet,andthecloudsandmistsdriftinthevalleys,shroudingtheplacewherethelegendarygodslive,likeafairyland.
Butthereisasayinginthehikingcircle-"eyesareinheaven,andyouareinhell."ThissentenceisnotonlyapplicabletoYubeng,youcanthinkofthissentenceanywhereintheMeiliarea.
Intheearlymorningoftheseconddayofthehike,thetwoofficiallybegantocrosstheplannedrouteandenteredthevirginforestafterwalkingupstreamalongtheShequRiverformorethananhour.Atthebeginning,theywerestillhappythattheycouldfollowapathupthemountain,butwhentheycametotheendofthepath,theyrealizedthatitwasjustasacrificepointforthevillagersanddidnotleadtothetopofthemountain.
Backhalfwayupthemountain,theyfoughthardtofindawayinaplacewheretherewasnoroad.Withastraight-linedistanceof3kilometers,thetwoofthemjustwalkedaroundformorethan10kilometers.Goingaroundandgoingthewrongwayisthenormalstateofpath-finding:sometimesyoucanwalkoutofthedenseforestbytwistingandturning,andsometimesyoucanonlyclimbthetopofthemountaintoobservetheterrainandthenturnbackontheoriginalroadtofindyourway.
Inthewetforest,thickfallenleavescoveredtheground,andnooneknewhowdeeponecouldgo.Occasionally,thedensevegetationcanmakeitimpossibletoseethegroundbeneathyourfeet,andthesurroundingdenseforestcanalsomakeyoudisoriented.Inthechaos,whentheysetupcampintheevening,theyfoundthatthewalkie-talkiewasalsoaccidentallylost.
▲Explorethedensebambooforestontheroute.
Onthethirddayofthisexploration,thetwodecidedtogiveup.Becauseofthedecisiontogiveup,thetwoevensleptinawillfulway.
Butwhenhewalkedoutofthetentandwasabouttowithdrawfromthecamp,hisfriendsawthat86'sfacewascoveredwiththeword"unwilling".Movingforwardisactuallynottoofarfromthedestination;retreatingisalsoajourneyofatleasttwodays.Lookingatthefoodleftbythetwoofthem,hesaidcruelly,"Thengoaheadforanotherday,ifyoucan'tdoit,youcan'twithdrawanymore.Anyway,thedryfoodpreparedisenough."
Onthisday,theydidnotmakeanymoremistakes,andtheprogresswasequivalenttothesumoftheprevioustwodays.However,thedifficultyoftheroutehasnotbeenovercome.Thefurtherforward,themoreuncertainthetwoofthemare.Canthepassbeturnedover?Incaseitcan'tbeturnedover,thedistanceofthereturnjourneywillincreaseagain,anditisimpossibletoreturnthesameway,willtherebeenoughfoodbythen?
▲Qunatong.
Atthistime,theydidn'tevenhavethechancetogiveup,andtheyhadnochoicebuttomoveon.
Inthelasttwodays,therewasverylittlefoodleftonthetwoofthem,andeverymealshouldbesavedasmuchaspossible.Thehappiesttimeofthedayistoboilapotofwateratthecampsiteatdinner,usetheseasoningpacketthatcomeswiththeseaweed,soakapacketofdriedfishandcookapotofsoup.Inthememoryofthetwo,itwasthemostdeliciouspotofsoupintheirlives.
Thenextdaywasthedaytocrossthepass.ThetwosatinthetentandstudiedtheroutemaponthehandheldGPS.86Suddenlyfoundthatthepassthatisabouttobecrossedtomorrowhasaname,itiscalledNiseraancientpass.Withaname,itmeansthatsomeonehaswalkedby,andthisdiscoveryhasaddedabitofconfidencetothetwo.
▲TheTongbapassfacestheNiseraancientpass.
Onthedayofcrossingthepass,thecombinationoflowtemperature,strongwind,anddrizzletormentedthetwoofthem.Theroadtocrossthepasswasnotasdifficultasimagined,buttheuphillandaltitudewereconstantlyexhaustingtheirphysicalstrength.Fortunately,thecarefulandsufficientpreparationsinadvanceallowedthetwotosuccessfullyclimbthepass.Whentheyfinallyboardedthepass,theireyescouldn'thelpbutgetwet.
However,thesuccessofthisjourneyisonlyachapterintheexplorationstory.
▲AerialphotographyofMeiliSnowMountainpanorama
Don'task,askisMerry
"NooneismorefamiliarwiththeterrainofMerrythanme."
Beforeofficiallyswitchingtooutdoor,86workedinthedesignandmanagementofJiajiaGarmentFactory.Likeeveryordinarymigrantworker,thereareonlyafewdaysofhikingvacationseveryyear.Nomatterwhereyouwanttogo,youhavetoplanandpreparewellinadvance,andyouneedlucktomakethetrip.
Afteralongtime,86begantofeelthathewasbeingrestrained,soheleftthegarmentfactoryandbegantoseekhisownpath.
Atthebeginning,hewantedtobeayouthhostelinLijiang.Afterplayingoutdoorsforafewyears,healsometafewfriendstodayinthehikingsectionofBaiduTieba.86shouted,andseveralpeoplecametoLijiangandstartedtheroadofentrepreneurship.Butsoon,theyfoundthattheirpersonalitieswerenotsuitableforbeingayouthhostel.Althoughtheyhadmorefreetime,theychargedlessthantenyuananightalltheyearround.Nottomentioninvitinggueststodinner,itwasfreeafterafewdaysofstay.
▲Thehostelthat86andfriendsusedtorun.
Lifemusthavepoetryandthedistance,butalsohavethepresent.Theoperationoftheyouthhostelquicklyconsumedalmostalloftheirsavings.Afterthinkingaboutit,everyoneisstillgoodatplayingoutdoors,whichiswhythecurrentclubwasestablished.Afterseveralyearsofexploration,theconceptofthehigh-altitudelight-loadedlineasthecorehasbeendetermined.
Workingintheoutdoorsgivesthemampletimecontrolandmakesitpossibletoexplorenewoutings.Overtheyears,thedesiretodevelopanewexternaltransferhasbeendeeplyembeddedin86'smind.WhenItalkedtomyfriendsaboutthetopic"What'stheplanrecently?",86'sattitudewasveryclear.
▲ShootingKawageboattheZhuoSaiPass.
86hasindeedspentthepastfewyearsonMeili.Aslongastheyarefree,afewpeoplewillpacktheirbagsandplungeintothedepthsoftheMeilimountains.AlmostallplansrevolvearoundMeili.
Thelineexplorationworkoftenrequiresalongerperiodthantheactualcompletionoftheroute.Foraroutethatcanbecompletedin5or6days,itmaytake8-10daystoexploretheline.Theextrafewdayswerespentinendlessfindingways,failures,andturningbacks.Theseextradaysmeanalotofthings,lessworkinghours,lessincome,andmorematerialpreparation.
▲Yubeng,oneofthemostfamousvillagesinMeiliarea,isalsooneofthemostimportantsupplypoints.
Timeisonlypartoftheproblem.Anotherbigproblemisfunding.Asamigrantworker,goingoutforahikealwaysrequiresspendingmoneyfromyourownsalarytosupportyourplan.Aftertheclubwasopened,thefundingproblemwasnotimmediatelyrelieved.Inthefirstyearoftheclub’sestablishment,theannualrevenuewasonlyabout10,000yuan.Itwasnotuntil2019thatthecompanyrealizedsalarypaymentforthefirsttime.In2020,Everyonehasastableincome.
Inthepasttwoyears,thefundsoftheexplorationprogramhavebeenspentmorefromtheclub'sincome.Itsoundslikeahappything,buttheepidemicthathasswepttheworldin2020hashittheoutdoorindustryparticularlyhard.Manyoutdoor-relatedbrick-and-mortarstoreshavecloseddownandlostmoney.86andhiscolleaguesarefortunate.Althoughthedevelopmentofthecompanyhasbeenseverelyhindered,itisstillstable.
However,inthisway,thefundsfortheexplorationcanonlybepaidoutoftheirownpockets.Friendshavenocomplaints,afterall,exploringaspectacularnewrouteintheMeiliareahasbecomeacommonidealformanyyears.Thegoalofcompletingthenewexternalrotationhasneverchanged,itisjustthatthefrontlineisdrawnlonger,andthestyleofexploringthelineismoreunique.
▲XuDongcuo,alsoknownas"Meili'sHeart".
▲GodaniLakawasphotographedinJiayingVillage,whichmeans"thetreasurechestofKawagebo".
Thebigguysinthehikingcirclehavetheirownstylesintheprocessofexploringnewroutes.Somepeopleliketoexplorearouteinfragments;somepeopleliketosavealongvacationtogetthroughatonce;8thline...
86ismoreaccustomedtofiguringoutthetopographyofanarea.Ontheonehand,hehasrelativelyfreetimeafterstartingtheclub.Ontheotherhand,repeatedlyexploringanareawillhelphimgettoknowthepeopleinthesurroundingvillages.
"Toputitmildly,nooneshouldbemorefamiliarwiththeterrainofMeilithanme.Maybelocalhuntersandvillagersarebetterthanmeabouttheroadsignsordetailsnearacertainvillage,butforthisareaaroundMeili.Nooneshouldbemorefamiliarwiththeterrainoftheareathanme."
▲AerialpanoramaofFeilaiTempleandMainzm.
Thissentencemaybeabitabsolute,butinadditiontothosewhiteandmysteriouspeaks,thegulliesandravinesbetweentheMeilimountainsarecoveredwith86footprints.MostofthesetracksstartfromtherivervalleysontheeastandwestsidesofKawagebo,andmeanderalongthegullyintothecoreareaofMeiliSnowMountain,passthroughglaciers,thefootofthemountain,sometimescrosstheridge,sometimescrossthepass,andthenfollowanothergullybacktothevalley.
Sometimesthesetrailsfollowthetrailsthathuntersandherdersoftentake,fromvillagetovillage.YearsofexplorationintheMeiliareahavealsomadethemacquaintedwithmanyvillagers.Whenevertheyplanaroute,theyalwaysaskthesevillagersaboutthestatusoftheroute,andthevillagersareoftenwillingtohelp.
Butevenifyouaskthesevillagerswhoarefamiliarwiththeforesttrails,therearealwayssomeunexpectedscenery,whichthevillagersrarelysetfootin.
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