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Meili's new outer turn: 6 years, 250 kilometers, 27,000 meters of climb, how did this new line

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2022-06-15 13:58:27

Meili's new outer turn: 6 years, 250 kilometers, 27,000 meters of climb, how did this new line


    "Ijustcameoutofthemountainsportsfitness ,andIstayedinthemountainforalmosthalfamonth,andthenXinwaizhuanfigureditout."

    Thisisthefirstmessage86senttomeafterheleftthemountain.Ontheotherendofthephone,hewasprobablystillwalkingontheroad,gaspingforbreath,hisvoicetremblingrhythmicallywithhispace.

    "Afterthislineisfinished,Icanevenconsideritawish.Afterall,ithasbeenalmostsixyears."Thiswashissecondsentence.

    Oneafternoonnearlyamonthago,86sentmeascreenshotofGoogleEarth.ThemountainsinMeiliareinthemiddle,andthesurroundingmountains,riversandravinesaredenselycoveredwithtracks.Thesearethetestimonyof86yearsofexploringMeili.

    "Weprefertofindaroadthateveryonecanwalk,atleastmostALICEfriendscanwalk.Insteadofsayingthatitisverydangerous,itseemsthatIamverypowerful.IwillclimbitmyselfandIwillbedone."

    thewayoffaith

    Onlypietycansupportyouthroughthisroute

    SpeakingofhikingintheMeiliarea,peopleoftenthinkofYubeng,alsoknownastheinner-turningroute,andthenthemountain-turningroute,whichistheouter-turningroute.Cometothinkofit,theseseemtobetheonlytwowell-establishedhikingtrailsintheMeriarea.

    Meilihasalwaysbeenaplacefulloflegends.Thenameofitsmainpeak"Kawagbo"isthenameofthetrinityofthemainpeakofPrinceSnowMountain,themountaingodandtheconceptofPrinceSnowMountain.Today,whenbasiceducationisquitepopular,TibetansstillbelievethattheMeiliMountaindisasterin1991wastheresultoftheappearanceofthegodKawagebo,andKawagebostillhasthetitleoftheheadoftheeightsacredmountainsinTibet.

    LegendhasitthatKawagebowasoriginallyaviciousgodwithnineheadsandeighteenarms.Later,hewastaughtbyGuruRinpoche,ordainedasalayman,convertedtoBuddhism,andbecameadivinegeneralunderKingGesar.snowy.TibetansareconvincedthatGodKawagebolivesintheglazedpalaceonthetopofthemountainandblessesallbeingswithauspiciousness.IntheTibetancalendar,Kawagebobelongstothesheep,soeveryyearofthesheepintheTibetancalendar,countlesspilgrimssetfootontheroadofKawageboturningthemountain.

    ▲MaChaitong,thetraditionalMeriturnsoutside.

    ItisdifficulttoverifythehistoryofthetraditionalMeili-waitingline.ItissaidthattheMeiliSnowMountainturnedthemountainasearlyas1268,whichoriginatedfromtheroadthattheTibetanBuddhistlivingBuddhaKarmaBaxihadtraveledherefor8years..Sincethen,TibetanBuddhistbelievershavebeenturningaroundtheKawagebosacredmountainformorethan700years.

    Buddhistsbelievethatthereareonlytwowaystoavoidthesufferingofthesixrealmsofreincarnation.ThefirstmethodistocultivateintoalivingBuddha,whichisextremelydifficult;thesecondmethodistoturnamountain.IntheheartsofmanypeoplewhobelieveinTibetanBuddhism,theymustturnaroundtheKawaborgonceintheirlivesinordertoavoidthesufferingoffallingintohellduringreincarnation.

    ▲Themountain-turneronthetraditionalouterturnroad.

    86hasalsogonethroughthetraditionalMerioutsideturn.

    Probablyin2008or2009,Ican'tremembertheexacttime86.Atthattime,hewasstillarookieintheoutdoors,andtherewerestillmanyhikingroutesthathehadnevergonethrough,andhewaseagertotryeveryoneofthem.However,strictlyspeaking,the86routehasnotbeencompletelycompletedsofar.Becausethereisalmostnosceneryatall,thereareonlyafewplaceswithbeautifulscenery,andthereareonlythreeplacestoseeKawageboPeakinthewholecircle.

    Inrecentyears,manyplacesontheforeigner'stransferroutehavebeenopenedtotraffic.ExceptforBuddhistswhobelieveinfaith,fewpeoplechoosetowalkthewholejourney.

    86comments,thisisthemostboringanduninterestingoutdoorroutehehastraveled,soboringthatthereareafewparagraphsof86andevendirectlychoosetotakethecar.Butitwasthisboredomthatmadehimrealizethepoweroffaith:fromtheageof70tothebeginningofschool,countlessTibetanspouredintothisextremelyboringroutetocompletethepracticeoftheirbeliefs.

    ▲YongshitongInn,thetraditionalMerioutside.

    "ThemostexaggeratedthingI'veeverseenisthelastyearofthesheep.ThelawnoftheYubengGodWaterfallwasdenselypackedwithpeople.JustlikegoingtoGangRinpocheintheyearofthehorse,itisabsolutelyimpossibletogetlost,followtheflowofpeople,andlookaround.Therewereatleastafewhundredpeopleinsight.Atthattime,IstillrememberthattheDeqinCountygovernmentrequisitionedallthehotelstoprovideaccommodationforpilgrims,aswellasrumors,anditwaslikegoingtoamarketalongtheway.”

    Althoughinnsandsupplypointshavecoveredeverynodeofthehikingroute,thelackofscenerymakesfewoutdoorenthusiastschoosetohike.Evenso,therearestillasteadystreamofpilgrimsonthemountainroadeveryyear.

    ▲Turn108,thetraditionalMerioutside.

    "It'sapurepathoffaiththathasalmostnothingtodowiththelandscape."

    MeiliSnowMountainhassucharichlandscape,butthereareonlyafewhikingroutes.Anideagraduallyformedin86'smind.HewantedtodeveloparoutethatwouldincorporatethebestofMerry.

    Preliminarystudy

    Goingaroundandgoingthewrongwayisthenormalstateofpath-finding

    Thebiggestdifferencebetweenexploringanewrouteandordinaryhikingisthatyoufaceunknownterrain.

    Inthefaceoftheunknown,itisoftennecessarytopreparemorefoodreservesandequipmentthanisactuallyneededtodealwithemergencies.Accordingto86'sdescription,themostexaggeratedone,theequipmenttheypreparedcouldbecomparabletohigh-altitudemountaineering,rangingfrompowerropes,iceaxes,seatbeltstomechanicalstoppers.However,mostofthetimetheycanusetheseequipment,theywillchoosetodrop.

    ▲86'sequipmentwall.

    What'smoreimportantisfoodstorage.FromQiunatongtoYubeng,itwasthefirsttimethat86begantoexplorethelineinthetruesense.InJuly2016,86andhisfriendYunboAweiembarkedonthisjourney.TheyplannedtocrossthepassbetweenWuguanPeakandJiangjunPeakfromQunatongtoYubeng.

    Thisisaroadthatnoonehaseversetfooton.Thereisnotrack,notrail,alltheyhaveistheequipmentintheirbagsandtheexperienceintheirheads.OnthenightofstayingatFeilaiTemple,Ichattedwiththeowneroftheinnaboutthepurposeofthetrip,butwasimmediatelyrejected,"Ihaveneverheardofanyonewalkinglikethis."

    Still,theydecidedtogiveitatry.JulyandAugustaretherainyseasonsinMeili,thesunrarelyshowsup,theairinthevalleysiswet,andthecloudsandmistsdriftinthevalleys,shroudingtheplacewherethelegendarygodslive,likeafairyland.

    Butthereisasayinginthehikingcircle-"eyesareinheaven,andyouareinhell."ThissentenceisnotonlyapplicabletoYubeng,youcanthinkofthissentenceanywhereintheMeiliarea.

    Intheearlymorningoftheseconddayofthehike,thetwoofficiallybegantocrosstheplannedrouteandenteredthevirginforestafterwalkingupstreamalongtheShequRiverformorethananhour.Atthebeginning,theywerestillhappythattheycouldfollowapathupthemountain,butwhentheycametotheendofthepath,theyrealizedthatitwasjustasacrificepointforthevillagersanddidnotleadtothetopofthemountain.

    Backhalfwayupthemountain,theyfoughthardtofindawayinaplacewheretherewasnoroad.Withastraight-linedistanceof3kilometers,thetwoofthemjustwalkedaroundformorethan10kilometers.Goingaroundandgoingthewrongwayisthenormalstateofpath-finding:sometimesyoucanwalkoutofthedenseforestbytwistingandturning,andsometimesyoucanonlyclimbthetopofthemountaintoobservetheterrainandthenturnbackontheoriginalroadtofindyourway.

    Inthewetforest,thickfallenleavescoveredtheground,andnooneknewhowdeeponecouldgo.Occasionally,thedensevegetationcanmakeitimpossibletoseethegroundbeneathyourfeet,andthesurroundingdenseforestcanalsomakeyoudisoriented.Inthechaos,whentheysetupcampintheevening,theyfoundthatthewalkie-talkiewasalsoaccidentallylost.

    ▲Explorethedensebambooforestontheroute.

    Onthethirddayofthisexploration,thetwodecidedtogiveup.Becauseofthedecisiontogiveup,thetwoevensleptinawillfulway.

    Butwhenhewalkedoutofthetentandwasabouttowithdrawfromthecamp,hisfriendsawthat86'sfacewascoveredwiththeword"unwilling".Movingforwardisactuallynottoofarfromthedestination;retreatingisalsoajourneyofatleasttwodays.Lookingatthefoodleftbythetwoofthem,hesaidcruelly,"Thengoaheadforanotherday,ifyoucan'tdoit,youcan'twithdrawanymore.Anyway,thedryfoodpreparedisenough."

    Onthisday,theydidnotmakeanymoremistakes,andtheprogresswasequivalenttothesumoftheprevioustwodays.However,thedifficultyoftheroutehasnotbeenovercome.Thefurtherforward,themoreuncertainthetwoofthemare.Canthepassbeturnedover?Incaseitcan'tbeturnedover,thedistanceofthereturnjourneywillincreaseagain,anditisimpossibletoreturnthesameway,willtherebeenoughfoodbythen?

    ▲Qunatong.

    Atthistime,theydidn'tevenhavethechancetogiveup,andtheyhadnochoicebuttomoveon.

    Inthelasttwodays,therewasverylittlefoodleftonthetwoofthem,andeverymealshouldbesavedasmuchaspossible.Thehappiesttimeofthedayistoboilapotofwateratthecampsiteatdinner,usetheseasoningpacketthatcomeswiththeseaweed,soakapacketofdriedfishandcookapotofsoup.Inthememoryofthetwo,itwasthemostdeliciouspotofsoupintheirlives.

    Thenextdaywasthedaytocrossthepass.ThetwosatinthetentandstudiedtheroutemaponthehandheldGPS.86Suddenlyfoundthatthepassthatisabouttobecrossedtomorrowhasaname,itiscalledNiseraancientpass.Withaname,itmeansthatsomeonehaswalkedby,andthisdiscoveryhasaddedabitofconfidencetothetwo.

    ▲TheTongbapassfacestheNiseraancientpass.

    Onthedayofcrossingthepass,thecombinationoflowtemperature,strongwind,anddrizzletormentedthetwoofthem.Theroadtocrossthepasswasnotasdifficultasimagined,buttheuphillandaltitudewereconstantlyexhaustingtheirphysicalstrength.Fortunately,thecarefulandsufficientpreparationsinadvanceallowedthetwotosuccessfullyclimbthepass.Whentheyfinallyboardedthepass,theireyescouldn'thelpbutgetwet.

    However,thesuccessofthisjourneyisonlyachapterintheexplorationstory.

    ▲AerialphotographyofMeiliSnowMountainpanorama

    Don'task,askisMerry

    "NooneismorefamiliarwiththeterrainofMerrythanme."

    Beforeofficiallyswitchingtooutdoor,86workedinthedesignandmanagementofJiajiaGarmentFactory.Likeeveryordinarymigrantworker,thereareonlyafewdaysofhikingvacationseveryyear.Nomatterwhereyouwanttogo,youhavetoplanandpreparewellinadvance,andyouneedlucktomakethetrip.

    Afteralongtime,86begantofeelthathewasbeingrestrained,soheleftthegarmentfactoryandbegantoseekhisownpath.

    Atthebeginning,hewantedtobeayouthhostelinLijiang.Afterplayingoutdoorsforafewyears,healsometafewfriendstodayinthehikingsectionofBaiduTieba.86shouted,andseveralpeoplecametoLijiangandstartedtheroadofentrepreneurship.Butsoon,theyfoundthattheirpersonalitieswerenotsuitableforbeingayouthhostel.Althoughtheyhadmorefreetime,theychargedlessthantenyuananightalltheyearround.Nottomentioninvitinggueststodinner,itwasfreeafterafewdaysofstay.

    ▲Thehostelthat86andfriendsusedtorun.

    Lifemusthavepoetryandthedistance,butalsohavethepresent.Theoperationoftheyouthhostelquicklyconsumedalmostalloftheirsavings.Afterthinkingaboutit,everyoneisstillgoodatplayingoutdoors,whichiswhythecurrentclubwasestablished.Afterseveralyearsofexploration,theconceptofthehigh-altitudelight-loadedlineasthecorehasbeendetermined.

    Workingintheoutdoorsgivesthemampletimecontrolandmakesitpossibletoexplorenewoutings.Overtheyears,thedesiretodevelopanewexternaltransferhasbeendeeplyembeddedin86'smind.WhenItalkedtomyfriendsaboutthetopic"What'stheplanrecently?",86'sattitudewasveryclear.

    ▲ShootingKawageboattheZhuoSaiPass.

    86hasindeedspentthepastfewyearsonMeili.Aslongastheyarefree,afewpeoplewillpacktheirbagsandplungeintothedepthsoftheMeilimountains.AlmostallplansrevolvearoundMeili.

    Thelineexplorationworkoftenrequiresalongerperiodthantheactualcompletionoftheroute.Foraroutethatcanbecompletedin5or6days,itmaytake8-10daystoexploretheline.Theextrafewdayswerespentinendlessfindingways,failures,andturningbacks.Theseextradaysmeanalotofthings,lessworkinghours,lessincome,andmorematerialpreparation.

    ▲Yubeng,oneofthemostfamousvillagesinMeiliarea,isalsooneofthemostimportantsupplypoints.

    Timeisonlypartoftheproblem.Anotherbigproblemisfunding.Asamigrantworker,goingoutforahikealwaysrequiresspendingmoneyfromyourownsalarytosupportyourplan.Aftertheclubwasopened,thefundingproblemwasnotimmediatelyrelieved.Inthefirstyearoftheclub’sestablishment,theannualrevenuewasonlyabout10,000yuan.Itwasnotuntil2019thatthecompanyrealizedsalarypaymentforthefirsttime.In2020,Everyonehasastableincome.

    Inthepasttwoyears,thefundsoftheexplorationprogramhavebeenspentmorefromtheclub'sincome.Itsoundslikeahappything,buttheepidemicthathasswepttheworldin2020hashittheoutdoorindustryparticularlyhard.Manyoutdoor-relatedbrick-and-mortarstoreshavecloseddownandlostmoney.86andhiscolleaguesarefortunate.Althoughthedevelopmentofthecompanyhasbeenseverelyhindered,itisstillstable.

    However,inthisway,thefundsfortheexplorationcanonlybepaidoutoftheirownpockets.Friendshavenocomplaints,afterall,exploringaspectacularnewrouteintheMeiliareahasbecomeacommonidealformanyyears.Thegoalofcompletingthenewexternalrotationhasneverchanged,itisjustthatthefrontlineisdrawnlonger,andthestyleofexploringthelineismoreunique.

    ▲XuDongcuo,alsoknownas"Meili'sHeart".

    ▲GodaniLakawasphotographedinJiayingVillage,whichmeans"thetreasurechestofKawagebo".

    Thebigguysinthehikingcirclehavetheirownstylesintheprocessofexploringnewroutes.Somepeopleliketoexplorearouteinfragments;somepeopleliketosavealongvacationtogetthroughatonce;8thline...

    86ismoreaccustomedtofiguringoutthetopographyofanarea.Ontheonehand,hehasrelativelyfreetimeafterstartingtheclub.Ontheotherhand,repeatedlyexploringanareawillhelphimgettoknowthepeopleinthesurroundingvillages.

    "Toputitmildly,nooneshouldbemorefamiliarwiththeterrainofMeilithanme.Maybelocalhuntersandvillagersarebetterthanmeabouttheroadsignsordetailsnearacertainvillage,butforthisareaaroundMeili.Nooneshouldbemorefamiliarwiththeterrainoftheareathanme."

    ▲AerialpanoramaofFeilaiTempleandMainzm.

    Thissentencemaybeabitabsolute,butinadditiontothosewhiteandmysteriouspeaks,thegulliesandravinesbetweentheMeilimountainsarecoveredwith86footprints.MostofthesetracksstartfromtherivervalleysontheeastandwestsidesofKawagebo,andmeanderalongthegullyintothecoreareaof​​MeiliSnowMountain,passthroughglaciers,thefootofthemountain,sometimescrosstheridge,sometimescrossthepass,andthenfollowanothergullybacktothevalley.

    Sometimesthesetrailsfollowthetrailsthathuntersandherdersoftentake,fromvillagetovillage.YearsofexplorationintheMeiliareahavealsomadethemacquaintedwithmanyvillagers.Whenevertheyplanaroute,theyalwaysaskthesevillagersaboutthestatusoftheroute,andthevillagersareoftenwillingtohelp.

    Butevenifyouaskthesevillagerswhoarefamiliarwiththeforesttrails,therearealwayssomeunexpectedscenery,whichthevillagersrarelysetfootin.