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Yuzhu Peak

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2023-02-14 15:36:41

Yuzhu Peak


Yuzhu Peak



The highest peak in the eastern section of Kunlun

Yuzhu Peak, 6178 meters above sea level, is located 10 kilometers east of the Kunlun Pass, 160 kilometers south of Golmud, Qinghai Province, and is the highest peak in the eastern part of Kunlun. The south is gentle and the north is steep, and the south slope glacier end is about 5100 meters above sea level; The glacier on the north slope extends to 4400 meters. The top of the mountain is covered with ice and snow all the year round, and there is no rock exposed. The ice and snow slopes are gentle. The glaciers below the snow basin belong to the retreating continental glaciers due to high temperature, rapid melting, less precipitation and greater melting than accumulation each year,  sports fitness  .

geographical position

Yuzhu Peak, also known as Kekesai Jimen Peak, is the highest peak in the eastern part of Kunlun Mountains at an altitude of 6178 meters, and 10 kilometers east of Kunlun Pass, 160 kilometers south of Golmud.



Climatic characteristics

The Yuzhufeng area has a continental climate, and the annual rainfall is only 200 mm. However, in high-altitude areas with an altitude of more than 5000 meters, the rainfall is hundreds of millimeters higher than that in the front of the mountain due to the influence of high-altitude convective airflow. The annual average temperature is minus 5 degrees, and the extreme minimum temperature can reach minus 30 degrees. The climbing season is from May to October. The weather in May is colder and the oxygen content is lower. July, August, September and October are more suitable for climbing.



The weather conditions in the mountains take June, 1999 as an example. The temperature in the base camp is - 3 'C~2' C at night, usually above 10 'C in the daytime, and can reach 20' C in sunny and windless days; The precipitation is affected by the general circulation and has no obvious period. Before climbing the mountain, refer to the medium-term forecast to formulate the climbing plan; It is worth noting that the weather on the mountain has a small cycle. Generally, the weather is better in the morning, the clouds are accompanied by light snow at noon, and it turns clear in the evening. This phenomenon is more obvious on the south slope than on the north slope.



Scenery of Jade Everest

From April to October, it is the climbing season of Yuzhu Peak. The weather conditions are relatively good. The weather cycle is five days. The snow is hard, but it does not hinder walking.



Main attractions

South slope route

In 1990, Peking University mountaineering team - ridge route (S1): the base camp climbed along the gravel slope of the southwest ridge on the river beach at the end of the southwest glacier of the main peak. At the junction of the southwest ridge and the south slope of the main peak, it was C1, with an altitude of about 5500 meters. Above C1 is a snow slope with an average slope of 35 degrees.

In June 1999, the Loguin mountaineering guide team - the south-west slope to south-south slope route (S2): the base camp is the same as above, climbing along the gravel slope on the right side of the glacier, binding the ice claw to the junction of rock and ice, and continuing up the snow slope. There is a small platform in the middle of a rock ridge closest to the main peak, C1 is built here, with an altitude of about 5600 meters.

In May 1999, Guizhou Youth Exploration Association - the south-south slope to south-south slope route (S3): the base camp is at the end of the glacier in the southeast of the main peak, and below C1, it needs to pass through the crack area on the glacier.



In June 1999, the guide team of Loguin Mountaineering started from Golmud, passed through Nachitai and Xidatan along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, passed the Kunlun Pass, left the Qinghai-Tibet Highway before the 2900km milestone of the National Highway 109, and drove 10 kilometers along the simple highway to the base camp of 4900m above sea level on the south slope of Yuzhu Peak. Jeep, truck, minibus and even minivan can drive directly to the base camp.



North slope route

In 1997, the mountaineering team of Peking University: three glaciers along the north slope can climb to the top of Yuzhu Peak, and the route of No. 2 (N1) and No. 3 (N2) glaciers (from east to west) is the route that has been climbed. The characteristic of the route on the north slope is that the climbing route cannot be seen clearly at the foot of the mountain (the part above 5600 meters is blocked); Secondly, before climbing to the top, you need to climb over other mountains, such as 5819 and 5920 on the route of No. 2 Glacier).